• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Rub-a-dub-dub...I got a new tub!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Scarpozzi

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Ok...maybe it's a tub/shower combo. My wife wanted a 1 piece unit because they're less likely to leak and are easier to maintain. This one wasn't near as cheap as what the big box stores offer...but it's nice. It is 41.5" wide from the wall because it has a bow front on it (note the curved cardboard on the front).
shower.jpg


Not exact, but similar to this model. It has a shelf and handle on the back wall.
http://www.akerbymaax.com/en/products/tubshowers/alcove/gtwt4260

I measured the top lip of the enclosure and it's a mere 35.5" wide... I think I'm going to try to go through the doors with it today after work.

Otherwise, I'll be hoisting it up to the second floor and going through my window openings (no windows installed yet).

Does anyone have any tips about installing an alcove shower enclosure like this? I'm thinking about framing walls on both sides so it's centered in the bathroom (to allow for plumbing access). Should I enclose the framing in plastic 3/4 of the way up or do anything to protect the subfloor from possible water problems in the future? I'm not sure what steps most people take with this stuff.
 
Last edited:
I've only installed one fiberglass combo unit. That particular model required it be set in mortar to support the base. I also showed a plumber how to repair about 50 of them he'd installed without support that were failing. I saved the guy about two hundred grand and he didn't even buy me lunch.
 
Your sheathing doesn't run from sill plate to top plate, and there isn't blocking installed instead. Isn't that required there?
 
I'd contact the manufacturer to see what their recommendations are. Here's what I base that statement on. As some of you might know, I opened an Anytime Fitness gym after my first retirement. Opening it required retail space I had leased to be built out to Anytime's specs. This included two full baths with showers. I watched three plumbers with a combined total of over 80 years of experience screw up the installation of not one, but both of the shower units. These babies weren't cheap. They came fully assembled, ADA compliant with fold down seats and grab bars, shower rod and shower controls, mixer valves, all piping, shower head and even a shower curtain. Both had to be removed and one of them twice. This necessitated ripping out framing the first round and framing and drywall the second.

I asked the owner of the company, a guy I've known and respected for 35 years how this happened and in frustration, he went into a bit of a tirade blaming everyone but himself and his guys. When he calmed down and explained that they had installed them the same as any other one they'd done hundreds of times before, I told him he should get a hold of the manufacturer to find out how they recommended they be installed. He wasn't happy to hear that and gave me some lip but the last try days later had them in place properly.

So now you know why I suggested what I suggested. Do it once and do it right.
 
boomerang said:
I'd contact the manufacturer to see what their recommendations are. Here's what I base that statement on. As some of you might know, I opened an Anytime Fitness gym after my first retirement. Opening it required retail space I had leased to be built out to Anytime's specs. This included two full baths with showers. I watched three plumbers with a combined total of over 80 years of experience screw up the installation of not one, but both of the shower units. These babies weren't cheap. They came fully assembled, ADA compliant with fold down seats and grab bars, shower rod and shower controls, mixer valves, all piping, shower head and even a shower curtain. Both had to be removed and one of them twice. This necessitated ripping out framing the first round and framing and drywall the second.

I asked the owner of the company, a guy I've known and respected for 35 years how this happened and in frustration, he went into a bit of a tirade blaming everyone but himself and his guys. When he calmed down and explained that they had installed them the same as any other one they'd done hundreds of times before, I told him he should get a hold of the manufacturer to find out how they recommended they be installed. He wasn't happy to hear that and gave me some lip but the last try days later had them in place properly.

So now you know why I suggested what I suggested. Do it once and do it right.
Click to expand...

Always read the instructions. Always.
 
Well....I posted about this is the main OT thread, but I got a few of my friends to come over last week and we were able to lift it through my second story window opening. I lifted the unit into the back of my truck...then setup a scaffold with 3 good 2x10 walk boards. 3 of us lifted it up from the bed of the truck to the 3 buck high scaffold....from there it only lacked 2.5 feet into the window. We got it in there and it barely fit without having to mess with the framing.

The tub came with instructions. It's an alcove shower so I started framing in the walls on both sides. I think I'm going to lower the ceiling over the shower a little to help keep my walls square (they're 10 feet tall).

As for support, the front of the unit rests on the floor and the rear of the unit has a couple of 2x4 feet that are covered in fiberglass. I'm going to shim those to level the unit and may look at sliding some sleepers under the tub itself. I was cutting through the floor for the drain and stepped into the unit to feel how much it gave under my weight. It does need a little extra support. I'm sure I can come up with something to build up the base some after I get the walls completed.
 
1) wall height doesn't affect square. If you aren't square at 10', 8 isn't going to make much difference. You really need to follow the alcove layout provided by the manufacturer. Level, plumb, and square are very important to the unit being installed properly.
2) you usually don't shim under tubs. If the floor is not level, you pull the subfloor and shim between the joists and subfloor.
3) A good idea for these units is to pour a mortar base for added stability.
4) try to avoid stepping in the unit while it's not attached, you have the potential to cause cracks in the unit from flexing.
5) to avoid damage to the unit, tape some moving blankets as protection from falling objects while installing. I.E. tools, faucet parts, etc.
 
Definitely make sure it's properly supported. One of our tubs flexes to the point where it is slightly deformed...and it's a steel tub.

No, I didn't install it.
 
waffleironhead said:
1) wall height doesn't affect square. If you aren't square at 10', 8 isn't going to make much difference. You really need to follow the alcove layout provided by the manufacturer. Level, plumb, and square are very important to the unit being installed properly.
2) you usually don't shim under tubs. If the floor is not level, you pull the subfloor and shim between the joists and subfloor.
3) A good idea for these units is to pour a mortar base for added stability.
4) try to avoid stepping in the unit while it's not attached, you have the potential to cause cracks in the unit from flexing.
5) to avoid damage to the unit, tape some moving blankets as protection from falling objects while installing. I.E. tools, faucet parts, etc.
Click to expand...
You're right..Wall height doesn't affect square, but there's nothing for the top plate on my wall to attach to. The side walls travel in the same direction as the rafters overhead. I'm thinking about connecting the walls together to keep them locked at the top, which would ultimately allow me to connect them to the rafters overhead and lower the ceiling. The advantage there is I would then be able to lower my recessed shower light and decrease some of the ventable space in the bathroom since the ceilings are so high.

The tub itself doesn't sit level....even on a level floor. It has a couple of 2x4s vertically attached on the bottom and the front apron of the tub...so basically 3 points of contact with the floor. The 2x4s are not even and the whole unit rocks. The installation document doesn't say anything about support under the unit being a requirement. I'm going to see about getting some adjustable legs/feet for those 2x4s on the base so I can simply adjust them with a wrench after I get the sides/back level and the front apron shimmed.

Then I'll look at raising the void beneath the center of the tub so it won't have very far to travel before hitting something solid. I'll have to see how much space there actually is there after I get the rest of the framing done and fit the unit.
 
Scarpozzi said:
You're right..Wall height doesn't affect square, but there's nothing for the top plate on my wall to attach to. The side walls travel in the same direction as the rafters overhead. I'm thinking about connecting the walls together to keep them locked at the top, which would ultimately allow me to connect them to the rafters overhead and lower the ceiling. The advantage there is I would then be able to lower my recessed shower light and decrease some of the ventable space in the bathroom since the ceilings are so high.

The tub itself doesn't sit level....even on a level floor. It has a couple of 2x4s vertically attached on the bottom and the front apron of the tub...so basically 3 points of contact with the floor. The 2x4s are not even and the whole unit rocks. The installation document doesn't say anything about support under the unit being a requirement. I'm going to see about getting some adjustable legs/feet for those 2x4s on the base so I can simply adjust them with a wrench after I get the sides/back level and the front apron shimmed.

Then I'll look at raising the void beneath the center of the tub so it won't have very far to travel before hitting something solid. I'll have to see how much space there actually is there after I get the rest of the framing done and fit the unit.
Click to expand...

Your walls should attach to the ceiling/roof framing even if they are non bearing. Generally this is achieved by blocking between the joists/rafters and nailing the top plate of the wall to the block. Without a connection at that point you'll almost certainly get movement and cracking. Here in earthquake country proper connections are everything.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

TRENDING THREADS

Back
Top